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Infragravity rip current pulsations [PDF]
Journal of Geophysical Research, 2004 The article of record as published may be located at http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2003JC002068The origins of rip current pulsations within the infragravity frequency band (0.004–0.04 Hz) are determined from measurements made with arrays of colocated ...
Jamie Macmahan +2 more
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Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 2011
Rip currents are fast-moving flows, traveling “outward almost at right angles to the shore” ( Shepard 1936 ), creating a natural hazard for beachgoers, who suddenly find themselves in deep water. Field measurements and instrumentation, laboratory techniques, and numerical modeling have improved with time, enabling a more complete description of rip ...
Dalrymple, Robert A. +3 more
+5 more sources
Rip currents are fast-moving flows, traveling “outward almost at right angles to the shore” ( Shepard 1936 ), creating a natural hazard for beachgoers, who suddenly find themselves in deep water. Field measurements and instrumentation, laboratory techniques, and numerical modeling have improved with time, enabling a more complete description of rip ...
Dalrymple, Robert A. +3 more
+5 more sources
Laboratory experiment on rip current circulations over a moveable bed: Drifter measurements
Journal of Geophysical Research, 2010 International audienceThis study describes a laboratory experiment on rip current circulations over a moveable bed. Rip current characteristics over eight contrasting nature-like beach morphologies are investigated.
Bruno Castelle +2 more
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RIPEX: Observations of a rip current system [PDF]
Marine Geology, 2005 The article of record as published may be located at http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2005.03.019Rip current kinematics and beach morphodynamics were measured for 44 days at Sand City, Monterey Bay, CA using 15 instruments composed of co-located ...
Jamie Macmahan, Ad Reniers
exaly +1 more source
Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2001
A laboratory experiment involving rip currents generated on a barred beach with periodic rip channels indicates that rip currents contain energetic low-frequency oscillations in the presence of steady wave forcing. An analytic model for the time-averaged flow in a rip current is presented and its linear stability characteristics are investigated to
Haller, Merrick C., Dalrymple, R. A.
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A laboratory experiment involving rip currents generated on a barred beach with periodic rip channels indicates that rip currents contain energetic low-frequency oscillations in the presence of steady wave forcing. An analytic model for the time-averaged flow in a rip current is presented and its linear stability characteristics are investigated to
Haller, Merrick C., Dalrymple, R. A.
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PULSING AND CIRCULATION IN RIP CURRENT SYSTEM
Coastal Engineering 2004, 2005Current pulsations from a longshore bar and trough rip system located on the eastern coast of Moreton Island, Australia are presented. These pulsations occur over 10-20minute intervals through the rip system and are correlated to both water level gradients and wave energy variations.
Callaghan, D. +5 more
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Hydrodynamic Instability Mechanism for Rip Currents
Studies in Applied Mathematics, 2015On reexamining the hydrodynamic instability, Yu [1] showed that when the fully dynamical interactions are duly accounted for, and proper mathematical analysis is carried out, the positive feedback between the wave and evolving current can initiate and sustain rip current circulations with scales comparable to field observations on alongshore uniform ...
Yu, Jie, Chen, Siyu
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The Journal of Geology, 1958
Under certain conditions of near-shore slope and wave activity, the major seaward drainage of water which has been moved toward the beach in waves and breakers is in the form of rip currents. These currents are particularly well developed along the coast of New South Wales, where they exhibit a systematic form.
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Under certain conditions of near-shore slope and wave activity, the major seaward drainage of water which has been moved toward the beach in waves and breakers is in the form of rip currents. These currents are particularly well developed along the coast of New South Wales, where they exhibit a systematic form.
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Journal of Geophysical Research, 1973
The dynamics of rip currents is investigated using a set of shallow water equations with a horizontal eddy viscosity term. A boundary layer analysis is introduced based on the observed fact that rip currents are rather narrow. Similarity solutions of the model equations are found which seem to give reasonable representations of the velocity profile and
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The dynamics of rip currents is investigated using a set of shallow water equations with a horizontal eddy viscosity term. A boundary layer analysis is introduced based on the observed fact that rip currents are rather narrow. Similarity solutions of the model equations are found which seem to give reasonable representations of the velocity profile and
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Journal of the Oceanographical Society of Japan, 1976
Mass, momentum and energy conservation laws, including the radiation stress, are used to derive an equation of the eigenvalues of rip current spacing. A coastal region with linear bottom slope is divided into two parts: Offshore region and surfzone separated by the breaker line.
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Mass, momentum and energy conservation laws, including the radiation stress, are used to derive an equation of the eigenvalues of rip current spacing. A coastal region with linear bottom slope is divided into two parts: Offshore region and surfzone separated by the breaker line.
openaire +1 more source