Results 261 to 270 of about 24,785 (302)
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2007
Abstract : Long term goals are to understand processes that cause the formation and maintenance of quasi-stationary rip channel / shoal systems in the surf zone. It is now recognized that this 3D configuration of the surf zone bathymetry is widespread and more representative than the simpler straight and parallel beaches that have been studied in ...
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Abstract : Long term goals are to understand processes that cause the formation and maintenance of quasi-stationary rip channel / shoal systems in the surf zone. It is now recognized that this 3D configuration of the surf zone bathymetry is widespread and more representative than the simpler straight and parallel beaches that have been studied in ...
+4 more sources
Journal of Geophysical Research, 1973
The dynamics of rip currents is investigated using a set of shallow water equations with a horizontal eddy viscosity term. A boundary layer analysis is introduced based on the observed fact that rip currents are rather narrow. Similarity solutions of the model equations are found which seem to give reasonable representations of the velocity profile and
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The dynamics of rip currents is investigated using a set of shallow water equations with a horizontal eddy viscosity term. A boundary layer analysis is introduced based on the observed fact that rip currents are rather narrow. Similarity solutions of the model equations are found which seem to give reasonable representations of the velocity profile and
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1989
The field data collected at Torrey Pines Beach in November 1978, were used to study the offshore wave groups, the wave-induced nearshore circulations and their generation mechanisms on a beach with relatively simple bathymetry. Unlike the theoretical models of nearshore circulation based on deterministic mechanisms, the mean currents at natural beaches
Ernest C.-S. Tang, Robert A. Dalrymple
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The field data collected at Torrey Pines Beach in November 1978, were used to study the offshore wave groups, the wave-induced nearshore circulations and their generation mechanisms on a beach with relatively simple bathymetry. Unlike the theoretical models of nearshore circulation based on deterministic mechanisms, the mean currents at natural beaches
Ernest C.-S. Tang, Robert A. Dalrymple
openaire +1 more source
Detailed monitoring reveals the nature of submarine turbidity currents
Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 2023Peter J Talling +2 more
exaly
Fast and destructive density currents created by ocean-entering volcanic eruptions
Science, 2023Michael A Clare +2 more
exaly