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Development and Validation of a Short Version of the Parisian Hamstring Avulsion Score (PHAS): The Short PHAS. [PDF]
Orthop J Sports MedKassab Hassan S +6 more
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Instrumented climbing holds and performance analysis in sport climbing
Sports Technology, 2008The definitive version may be found at www.wiley.com ; Franz Konstantin Fuss and Günther ...
GÜNTHER Niegl
exaly +5 more sources
Injury Risk Evaluation in Sport Climbing
International Journal of Sports Medicine, 2011The aim of this study was to quantify and rate acute sport climbing injuries. Acute sport climbing injuries occurring from 2002 to 2006 were retrospectively assessed with a standardized web based questionnaire. A total number of 1962 climbers reported 699 injuries, which is equivalent to 0.2 injuries per 1 000 h of sport participation.
V Schöffl
exaly +3 more sources
Injury in traditional and sport rock climbing
Wilderness and Environmental Medicine, 1998The objective of this study was to compare patterns of injury found in traditional rock climbing with those found in sport climbing. A questionnaire was administered to rock climbers by mail, in person, and via the World Wide Web. Injuries that occurred while rope-protected climbing on rock were analyzed regarding the anatomical location and the ...
T E, Paige, D C, Fiore, J D, Houston
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2020
Sport climbing and bouldering have become an increasingly popular sport since the introduction of bolted routes and the development of dedicated ropes, which allow high safety standards. Along with this, the level of difficulty increased continuously during the last 30 years.
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Sport climbing and bouldering have become an increasingly popular sport since the introduction of bolted routes and the development of dedicated ropes, which allow high safety standards. Along with this, the level of difficulty increased continuously during the last 30 years.
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Instrumented Climbing Holds and Dynamics of Sport Climbing
2006This paper gives an overview of usage of instrumented climbing holds (equipped with force sensors) for assessing the performance of a climber, be it during training or competition, as well as assessment of training progress and success, gripping techniques, and value of equipment (e.g., chalk).
Fuss, F., Niegl, G.
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Non-traumatic aspects of sport climbing
Wiener Medizinische Wochenschrift, 2005Within only two decades, sport climbing has developed into an activity performed by a large group of the active population in every (western) country, with nearly all ages being represented. The difficulties now overcome by most athletes are in advance of those expected 20 years ago.
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Efficacy of pre‐ascent climbing route visual inspection in indoor sport climbing
Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports, 2012Pre‐ascent climbing route visual inspection (route preview) has been suggested as a key climbing performance parameter although its role has never been verified experimentally. We examined the efficacy of this perceptual‐cognitive skill on indoor sport climbing performance.
Sanchez, Xavier +3 more
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Shoe design for prevention of injuries in sport climbing
Applied Ergonomics, 2001Foot injuries and deformations are more frequent at higher levels of sport climbing. These are accepted as unavoidable because it is assumed that, for optimal performance, a prerequisite is the wearing of a shoe, which is too tight and has an unnatural shape. Based on a biomechanical analysis, we came up with a different approach to shoe design.
van der Putten, EP (Eleonora) +1 more
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A biomechanical study of equilibrium in sport rock climbing
Gait & Posture, 1999One of the main objectives of the experiment reported in this article was to analyze the arrangement of the forces applied to the holds accompanying a voluntary right foot release in the hanging rock climber. The three dimensional reaction forces applied to the holds were measured using four holds equipped with strain gauges.
F, Quaine, L, Martin
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