Results 121 to 130 of about 145,596 (168)

Breaking Wave Force Prediction

Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division, 1958
Laboratory data of kinematics of waves breaking on model beach are analyzed and resulting water particle velocities and accelerations are used in Morison-O'Brien-Johnson-Schaaf wave force theory to predict force field for piles of three different diameters; comparison of results with predictions from modified solitary wave theory are given.
R. L. Wiegel, R. E. Skjei
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Wave Diagnostics and Forcing

Russian Physics Journal, 2018
Physical possibilities of remote diagnostics and manipulation with the state of the propagation medium by the methods of wave tomosynthesis are considered. This refers to the electromagnetic and acoustic waves as well as waves of other nature. Important are multi-position measurements with retention of phase information at each point of the medium that
V. P. Yakubov, S. E. Shipilov, D. Ya. Sukhanov   +2 more
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TRAVELLING WAVES FOR FORCED FISHER'S EQUATION

Nonlinear Analysis: Theory, Methods & Applications, 1986
The author studies travelling waves (the solutions of the form \(u(x,t)=U(x-ct))\) for Fisher's equations \[ u_ t=u_{xx}+f(u),\quad u_ t=u_{xx}+f(u)+\mu g(x-ct), \] where \(\mu\) is a small parameter, f twice continuously differentiable and \(f(0)=f(1)=0,\quad f'(0)\neq 0>f'(1).\) Two cases of functions f are considered: (i) \(f(u)>0\) for ...
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Topographically forced inertial waves

Journal of Marine Systems, 1993
Abstract The response of a continuously stratified, inviscid coastal sea to a harmonic background flow over a small amplitude topographic feature is studied in the frame of a linear theory. We consider, in particular, a switched-on inertial oscillation over a cosine-shaped ridge.
Wolfgang Fennel, Martin Schmidt
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Thermal force drift wave

Physics of Plasmas, 2012
A drift instability of a collisional magnetized plasma, unstable due to the Braginskii thermal force but not requiring any direct dissipation such as resistivity or electron inertia, is examined. Unlike conventional drift-modes, the maximum growth rate of the thermal force drift wave (TFDW) is of order the drift frequency, making for a strongly ...
C. P. Hung, A. B. Hassam
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Wave Forces on Wall

Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 1991
Revised criteria is presented for wave shoaling after breaking on a plane beach and for resulting wave forces on a wall landward of the still-water line. Existing criteria is based on the assumption that the wave height above still water will remain constant between the point of wave breaking and the shoreline.
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Prediction of Wave Forces

1982
The present paper investigates the application of boundary element methods [1] [2] to compute wave forces on fixed and floating offshore structures of arbitrary shapes. Although the present work deals only with two dimensional applications, a similar theory can be applied to three-dimensional problems [3] Results are then compared against the ...
C. A. Brebbia, M. C. Au
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Measuring intertidal wave forces

Journal of Experimental Marine Biology and Ecology, 1984
Abstract Wave force is regarded widely to be an important determinant of distribution and abundance of shallow water, marine organisms, but is seldom measured in ecological studies. Here I describe a small, inexpensive device that measures forces due to wave action in the range of 2 to 20 N allowing quantification of most accessible intertidal ...
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Resonantly Forced Rossby Waves

Journal of Physical Oceanography, 1985
Abstract A shallow, rotating layer of fluid that supports Rossby waves is subjected to turbulent friction through an Ekman layer at the bottom and is driven by a wave that exerts a shear stress on the upper boundary and for which the phase approximate that of a Rossby wave.
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Extremes of Wave Forces

Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 1984
Probabilistic descriptors are developed for Morison‐type wave forces. They are based on the actual distribution of these forces and on the hypothesis that wave forces follow Gaussian distributions. The Gaussian hypothesis is characteristic of analyses based on statistical linearization.
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