Results 1 to 10 of about 82 (78)

Numerical modelling of gravel transportation by a tsunami with the extended XBeach-G [PDF]

Applied Ocean Research
Estimating coastal erosion by a tsunami is essential for land use planning, assessing hazards for current structures (e.g., coastal nuclear power plants), and for paleotsunami reconstruction.
Masashi Watanabe, Gerd Masselink, Daisuke Ishimura, Masaki Yamada, Adam D. Switzer   +4 more
doaj   +2 more sources

Rapid Changes in Permeability: Numerical Investigation into Storm-Driven Pebble Beach Morphodynamics with XBeach-G

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
This study delves into the morphodynamic changes of pebble beaches in response to storm events, employing a combination of observational and numerical approaches.
Antoine Soloy, Carlos Lopez Solano, Emma Imen Turki, Ernesto Tonatiuh Mendoza, Nicolas Lecoq   +4 more
doaj   +4 more sources

Modelling storm hydrodynamics on gravel beaches with XBeach-G [PDF]

Coastal Engineering, 2014
AbstractIn this paper we present a process-based numerical model for the prediction of storm hydrodynamics and hydrology on gravel beaches. The model comprises an extension of an existing open-source storm-impact model for sandy coasts (XBeach), through the application of (1) a non-hydrostatic pressure correction term that allows wave-by-wave modelling
McCall, R.T., Masselink, G., Poate, T.G., Roelvink, J.A., Almeida, L.P., Davidson, M., Russell, P.E.   +6 more
openaire   +1 more source

Modelling storm response on gravel beaches using XBeach-G [PDF]

Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Maritime Engineering, 2014
Despite the clear societal importance of gravel beaches and barriers in protecting coastal areas from flooding, there are currently no reliable numerical models for predicting the morphological response of gravel beaches to storm events. This paper synthesises the results of a research project (NUPSIG) aimed at reducing this shortfall through an ...
Gerd Masselink, Robert McCall, Tim Poate, Pieter van Geer   +3 more
openaire   +1 more source

Storm overwash of a gravel barrier: Field measurements and XBeach-G modelling [PDF]

Coastal Engineering, 2017
Abstract Gravel barriers provide a natural form of coastal protection and flood defence for many sites around the UK and worldwide. Predicting their vulnerability to different storm impact regimes that cause overtopping and overwash is crucial as these processes can lead to hazardous consequences such as inundation of the back of the barrier or ...
Luis Pedro Almeida, Gerd Masselink, Robert McCall, Paul Russell   +3 more
openaire   +1 more source

PREDICTING THE RESHAPING OF TEMPORARILY EXPOSED BUNDS WITH XBEACH-G

Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 2018
During coastal construction works, damages often occur to temporary constructions consisting of fine and often wide graded rock material due to exposure to waves. Examples of vulnerable structures are the bunds that are constructed to serve as the core for a breakwater before placement of the filter and armour layers, or as temporary defense during ...
Arjan Mol, Ton Van der Plas, Robert McCall, Merel Kroeders   +3 more
openaire   +1 more source

Modelling the morphodynamics of gravel beaches during storms with XBeach-G

Coastal Engineering, 2015
AbstractThis paper presents an extension of the XBeach-G numerical model with a sediment transport and morphology module, which includes the effect of groundwater ventilation and flow inertia on sediment transport, to simulate the morphodynamic response of pure gravel beaches and barriers to storms.
McCall, R.T., Masselink, G., Poate, T.G., Roelvink, J.A., Almeida, L.P.   +4 more
openaire   +1 more source

Storm-Induced Evolution on an Artificial Pocket Gravel Beach: A Numerical Study with XBeach-Gravel

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Coarse-grained beaches consisting of gravel, pebbles, and cobbles play a crucial role in coastal protection. On the Croatian Adriatic coast, there are artificial gravel pocket beaches created for recreational and protective purposes.
Hanna Miličević, Dalibor Carević, Damjan Bujak, Goran Lončar, Andrea Tadić   +4 more
doaj   +1 more source

Increasing Frequency of Coastal Erosion Indicated by a Hindcast Model of Storm‐Driven Forcing Calibrated With Beach Stratigraphy

Earth's Future, Volume 14, Issue 8, August 2026.
Abstract Beach stratigraphy at North Beach, Sandy Hook, New Jersey is used to calibrate a model of coastal erosion, establish a model‐based erosion threshold, and evaluate how often threshold conditions have been exceeded since 1979 through hindcast analysis.
W. John Schmelz, Kenneth G. Miller, Jonathan Liu, J. N. Stanley, James V. Browning   +4 more
wiley   +1 more source

Wave Energy Transfer in Shallow Water: Numerical Investigation of Slope and Offshore Wave Condition Effects

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, Volume 131, Issue 8, August 2026.
Abstract This study advances the understanding of nonlinear wave interactions in shallow water by numerically quantifying how foreshore slope and offshore conditions influence energy transfer and wave evolution over a broad range of conditions. Two non‐hydrostatic models, SWASH and XBeach, are validated against physical experiments and applied across a
M. P. de Ridder, P. Mares‐Nasarre, M. R. A. van Gent   +2 more
wiley   +1 more source