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2020
Wave breaking on sandy beaches occurs as waves encounter decreasing depth and is the primary mechanism for wave energy dissipation. The initial breaking process occurs when the depth becomes too shallow for a stable waveform to exist and can also be influenced by the beach slope.
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Wave breaking on sandy beaches occurs as waves encounter decreasing depth and is the primary mechanism for wave energy dissipation. The initial breaking process occurs when the depth becomes too shallow for a stable waveform to exist and can also be influenced by the beach slope.
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Physical Review Letters, 1997
A finite-width laser pulse of high intensity propagating in an underdense plasma excites a transversely inhomogeneous, finite amplitude wakefield. This wake wave undergoes a transverse wave breaking due to the increase of the wake front curvature, followed by the self-intersection of electron trajectories.
Bulanov SV +3 more
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A finite-width laser pulse of high intensity propagating in an underdense plasma excites a transversely inhomogeneous, finite amplitude wakefield. This wake wave undergoes a transverse wave breaking due to the increase of the wake front curvature, followed by the self-intersection of electron trajectories.
Bulanov SV +3 more
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A domain decomposition approach to compute wave breaking (wave‐breaking flows)
International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, 2003AbstractA heterogeneous domain decomposition approach is followed to simulate the unsteady wavy flow generated by a body moving beneath a free surface. Attention being focused on complex free surface configurations, including wave‐breaking phenomena, a two‐fluid viscous flow model is used in the free surface region to capture the air–water interface ...
Iafrati, A., Campana, E. F.
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Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 2001
Experiments were conducted with periodic wave groups incident on a plane beach with a slope of 1:35. The wave groups were composed of a series of cnoidal waves with varying wave heights. Emphasis was on obtaining a number of measurements inside the surf zone.
I. A. Svendsen, J. Veeramony
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Experiments were conducted with periodic wave groups incident on a plane beach with a slope of 1:35. The wave groups were composed of a series of cnoidal waves with varying wave heights. Emphasis was on obtaining a number of measurements inside the surf zone.
I. A. Svendsen, J. Veeramony
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2023
This volume shows how literature and art reveal unsuspected properties of water. The myths and legends that water and the sea have generated (the Flood, the voyages of Ulysses and Aeneas, the mermaids, the ocean as an old man, Proteus or Nereus, Ophelia, the white whale) resound like a reservoir of forms and themes that today’s verbal and visual arts ...
Roelens, Nathalie, Erchadi, Armand
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This volume shows how literature and art reveal unsuspected properties of water. The myths and legends that water and the sea have generated (the Flood, the voyages of Ulysses and Aeneas, the mermaids, the ocean as an old man, Proteus or Nereus, Ophelia, the white whale) resound like a reservoir of forms and themes that today’s verbal and visual arts ...
Roelens, Nathalie, Erchadi, Armand
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Coastal Engineering, 1991
Abstract This paper studies incipient wave breaking in 225 hydraulic model test results. The measured values of breaking wave height are compared with earlier data and earlier expressions. It is found that the present measured values are substantially lower, because the tests used irregular waves on a natural beach.
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Abstract This paper studies incipient wave breaking in 225 hydraulic model test results. The measured values of breaking wave height are compared with earlier data and earlier expressions. It is found that the present measured values are substantially lower, because the tests used irregular waves on a natural beach.
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2019
Abstract Andy Clark is the foremost architect of the extended cognition hypothesis (ExC), according to which the machinery of mind extends beyond the skull and skin. Advocates of ExC divide into several camps, the most prominent being the first-wave (parity-based) theorists and the second-wave (complementarity-based) theorists. These two
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Abstract Andy Clark is the foremost architect of the extended cognition hypothesis (ExC), according to which the machinery of mind extends beyond the skull and skin. Advocates of ExC divide into several camps, the most prominent being the first-wave (parity-based) theorists and the second-wave (complementarity-based) theorists. These two
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2019
This chapter asks the question: Can women filmmakers, cinematic spectators, and televisual viewers speak from their doubly––sociopolitically and gendered––extraterritorialised position? It -historicises the theoretical discourse and film practice of the first phase (1968–78) of the Hong Kong New Wave from the perspectives of women filmmakers and ...
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This chapter asks the question: Can women filmmakers, cinematic spectators, and televisual viewers speak from their doubly––sociopolitically and gendered––extraterritorialised position? It -historicises the theoretical discourse and film practice of the first phase (1968–78) of the Hong Kong New Wave from the perspectives of women filmmakers and ...
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Mass Transfer at the Ocean–Atmosphere Interface: The Role of Wave Breaking, Droplets, and Bubbles
Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 2022Luc Deike
exaly