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Water waves break as they advance over a gently sloping beach for all off-shore sea states except for the calmest conditions. Most theoretical, experimental and field studies have been directed to this type of wave breaking, yet waves can break with ...
Peregrine, D.H. (author)
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Some of the next articles are maybe not open access.
SPH MODELING OF BREAKING WAVES
Coastal Engineering 2004, 2005Rogers, Benedict D., Dalrymple, R A
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Extreme wave groups in a wave flume: Controlled generation and breaking onset
Coastal Engineering, 2017Eugeny Buldakov +2 more
exaly

