Results 21 to 30 of about 593,853 (296)

Wave Spectrum of Breaking Waves

Coastal Engineering 1976, 1976
By wave breaking, an incident monocromatic wave is transformed to a wave composed of its harmonic frequency waves inside a surf zone. Based on a dimensional consideration, the "-1 power law ", the "-2 power law ", the "-2/3 power law " and the "-1/2 power law " on the wave height spectrum ,H(f), are derived as sorts of equilibrium spectra.
Toru Sawaragi, Koichiro Iwata
openaire   +2 more sources

Symmetry breaking in small rotating cloud of trapped ultracold Bose atoms [PDF]

, 2006
We study the signatures of rotational and phase symmetry breaking in small rotating clouds of trapped ultracold Bose atoms by looking at rigorously defined condensate wave function.
A. Riera, D. Dagnino, J. P. Blaizot, K. Osterloh, L. Jacak, L. Pitaevskii, M. Lewenstein, N. Barberán, N. Bogoliubov, O. Penrose, V. L. Ginzburg   +10 more
core   +2 more sources

Dispersive wave emission from wave breaking [PDF]

Optics Letters, 2013
We show that pulses undergoing wave breaking in nonlinear weakly dispersive fibers radiate, owing to phase-matching (assisted by higher-order dispersion) of linear dispersive waves with the shock-wave front. Our theoretical results perfectly explain the radiation observed recently from pulses propagating in the normal dispersion (i.e., nonsolitonic ...
Conforti, Matteo, Trillo, Stefano
openaire   +3 more sources

Breaking wave solutions of a short wave model

Results in Physics, 2019
In this paper, the breaking wave solutions of a short wave model is investigated by employing the bifurcation method of dynamical systems. All possible explicit breaking kink wave solutions and compacton solutions are obtained. Dynamical analysis reveals
Lina Zhang, Wenhua Huang
doaj   +1 more source

Wave Transmission over Rubble-Mound Submerged Breakwaters

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 2023
This study focuses on the prediction of technical efficiency of narrow-crested submerged permeable rubble-mound breakwaters, in terms of wave attenuation.
Elpidoforos Repousis, Ioannis Roupas, Constantine Memos   +2 more
doaj   +1 more source

Finite volume schemes for dispersive wave propagation and runup [PDF]

, 2010
Finite volume schemes are commonly used to construct approximate solutions to conservation laws. In this study we extend the framework of the finite volume methods to dispersive water wave models, in particular to Boussinesq type systems. We focus mainly
Amick, Anastasiou, Antonopoulos, Antonopoulos, Audusse, Avilez-Valente, Bellotti, Benjamin, Benkhaldoun, Bona, Bona, Bona, Bona, Bona, Boussinesq, Cea, Chen, Chen, Cienfuegos, Cienfuegos, Craig, Dao, Delis, Delis, Denys Dutykh, Dias, Dimitrios Mitsotakis, Dougalis, Dougalis, Dougalis, Dutykh, Erduran, Eskilsson, Eskilsson, Fokas, Ghidaglia, Ghidaglia, Gottlieb, Hamidou, Harten, Heitner, Hibberd, Jamois, Kanoglu, Kennedy, Kervella, Kolgan, Korteweg, Kulikov, Kurganov, Lannes, Levy, Li, Liu, Madsen, Maxworthy, Mitsotakis, Nessyahu, Nwogu, Pelloni, Peregrine, Schonbek, Serre, Shiach, Shu, Simon, Spiteri, Sweby, Synolakis, Synolakis, Tadepalli, Theodoros Katsaounis, Titov, Tonelli, van Leer, Wei, Yan, Zelt   +77 more
core   +6 more sources

Experimental Investigation on the Mechanism of Longshore Sediment Transport Using a Circular Wave Basin

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 2022
In this paper, a hydraulic model experiment was conducted to investigate the mechanism of longshore sediment transport on a sloping beach of 1:7 using a circular wave tank equipped with a spiral wave maker.
Mohammad Shaiful Islam, Naoki Akita, Tomoaki Nakamura, Yong-Hwan Cho, Norimi Mizutani   +4 more
doaj   +1 more source

Effects of Planetary Wave-breaking on the Seasonal Variation of Total Column Ozone [PDF]

, 2000
The effects of planetary wave breaking on the seasonal variation of total column ozone are investigated using a zonally averaged chemical-radiative-transport model of the atmosphere.
Andrews, Baldwin, Donald J. Wuebbles, Eugene C. Cordero, Garcia, Holton, Leovy, Li, Lindzen, Long Li, McIntyre, Patten, Terrence R. Nathan   +12 more
core   +2 more sources

Mechanism analysis of internal solitary waves breaking encountering submarine ridges based on laboratory experiments

AIP Advances, 2023
Internal solitary waves are commonly present in global oceans, and these waves encounter submarine ridges during their propagation, resulting in breaking.
Xunxian Nian, Lei Zhang, Xiaofang Sun, Enrui Zhang   +3 more
doaj   +1 more source

Effects of Rossby Waves Breaking and Atmospheric Blocking Formation on the Extreme Forest Fire and Floods in Eastern Siberia 2019

Fire, 2023
In 2019, the southern region of Eastern Siberia (located between 45° N and 60° N) experienced heavy floods, while the northern region (between 60° N and 75° N) saw intense forest fires that lasted for almost the entire summer, from 25 June to 12 August ...
Olga Yu. Antokhina, Pavel N. Antokhin, Boris D. Belan, Alexander V. Gochakov, Yuliya V. Martynova, Konstantin N. Pustovalov, Lena D. Tarabukina, Elena V. Devyatova   +7 more
doaj   +1 more source