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Incipient wave breaking

Coastal Engineering, 1991
Abstract This paper studies incipient wave breaking in 225 hydraulic model test results. The measured values of breaking wave height are compared with earlier data and earlier expressions. It is found that the present measured values are substantially lower, because the tests used irregular waves on a natural beach.
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Breaking Waves

Physics World, 1990
Bill Easson, Clive Greated
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Breaking the Waves

2019
Abstract Andy Clark is the foremost architect of the extended cognition hypothesis (ExC), according to which the machinery of mind extends beyond the skull and skin. Advocates of ExC divide into several camps, the most prominent being the first-wave (parity-based) theorists and the second-wave (complementarity-based) theorists. These two
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Breaking the Wave

2019
This chapter asks the question: Can women filmmakers, cinematic spectators, and televisual viewers speak from their doubly––sociopolitically and gendered––extraterritorialised position? It -historicises the theoretical discourse and film practice of the first phase (1968–78) of the Hong Kong New Wave from the perspectives of women filmmakers and ...
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Wave breaking: do we know why the waves break?

The breaking of deep-water surface water waves represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems of fluid mechanics. Breaking is a strongly nonlinear shocklike intermittent random process, the distribution of which on the water surface is not continuous.
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Breaking Water Waves

2016
A basic question in the theory of nonlinear partial differential equations is: when does a solution form a singularity and what is its nature? The aim of this lecture series is to offer an introduction into the analytic study of these questions for unidirectional shallow water waves models. Two particular models are investigated: the famous Korteweg–de
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Breaking Waves

Scientific American, 2019
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