Results 241 to 250 of about 6,845 (273)

Alongshore rip channel migration and sediment transport [PDF]

open access: yesMarine Geology, 2010
Abstract The relationship between alongshore rip channel migration and sediment transport is investigated using time-averaged video images to identify the positions of rip channels at three sites along southern Monterey Bay, California, over 1–3 year periods. Daily migration rates are calculated for each site.
Edward B Thornton   +2 more
exaly   +4 more sources

Storm-driven changes in rip channel patterns on an embayed beach

open access: yesGeomorphology, 2011
This paper introduces a semi-automatic computer algorithm designed to detect rip current channels in video imagery. As a case study, this method is applied to 3.3 years of video data from an embayed beach to demonstrate the link between antecedent surf zone morphology, wave energy and up/down transitions in beach state.
Shari L Gallop   +2 more
exaly   +4 more sources

Morphodynamic modelling of rip channel growth

Coastal Engineering, 2002
The morphological evolution of a rip channel system due to normally incident waves has been investigated using two different approaches. The first approach is a state-of-the-art commercial 2DH Coastal Area model, whereas the second approach is a linear stability analysis.
Nicholas Dodd
exaly   +2 more sources

The Roles of Bathymetry and Waves in Rip‐Channel Dynamics

open access: yesJournal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface
AbstractThe behavior and predictability of rip currents (strong, wave‐driven offshore‐directed surfzone currents) have been studied for decades. However, few studies have examined the effects of rip channel morphology on the rip generation or have compared morphodynamic models with observations.
D. F. Christensen   +2 more
openaire   +3 more sources

Mean currents and sediment transport in a rip channel

Marine Geology, 1997
Measurements of hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport were carried out along a cross-shore transect in a rip channel. A tidally induced threshold for rip flow initiation was found; this threshold depended upon the degree of wave energy dissipation and could be identified through a critical value of the ratio of significant wave height to water
Troels Aagaard, Jørgen Nielsen
exaly   +2 more sources

Megacusps on rip channel bathymetry: Observations and modeling

Coastal Engineering, 2011
Abstract The formation of beach megacusps along the shoreline of southern Monterey Bay, CA, is investigated using time-averaged video and simulated with XBeach, a recently developed coastal sediment transport model. Investigations focus on the hydrodynamic role played by the bay's ever-present rip channels.
Ad Reniers   +2 more
exaly   +2 more sources

Three-Dimensional SPH Modeling of a Bar/Rip Channel System

Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 2014
AbstractA Lagrangian numerical method called smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) is used to analyze a simplified bar/rip channel system on a beach. Prior studies have shown that SPH models propagate water waves well, including breaking waves; here, it is shown that SPH also models the mean wave-induced nearshore circulation created by breaking waves.
Robert A Dalrymple   +2 more
exaly   +2 more sources

Rip currents and rip channel morphodynamics under quasi-steady conditions

OCEANS 2009, 2009
We developed a realistic test case for morphodynamic predictions of short-term bathymetry evolution associated with quasi-steady rip currents. Assuming stationary forcing, predictions made by the coupled wave-hydrodynamic-morphodynamic model Delft3D are compared with surf zone morphological change inferred from quarterly in-situ bathymetrie surveys ...
Julian Simeonov   +2 more
openaire   +1 more source

MEGACUSP FORMATION ON RIP CHANNEL BATHYMETRY

The Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments 2011, 2011
The formation of beach megacusps in the presence of rip channel bathymetry is investigated using time-averaged video and simulated with XBeach, a recently developed coastal sediment transport model. A review of four years of video and wave data from Sand City, CA, indicates that megacusp embayments most often form shoreward of rip channels under larger
MARK ORZECH   +3 more
openaire   +1 more source

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