Changes of Wind Waves in the North Atlantic over the last 30 years [PDF]
, 1999 In order to evaluate long-term climatic changes in wind wave height, visual wave estimates available from the Comprehensive Ocean–Atmosphere Data Set (GOADS) were updated for the period from 1964 to 1993.
Gulev, Sergej, Hasse, Lutz
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The effects of tides on swash statistics on an intermediate beach [PDF]
, 2011 Swash hydrodynamics were investigated on an intermediate beach using runup data obtained from video images. Under mild, near-constant, offshore wave conditions, the presence of a sandbar and the tidally controlled water depth over its crest determined ...
Bryan, Karin R. +3 more
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Wave transformation across a macrotidal shore platform under low to moderate energy conditions [PDF]
, 2017 We investigate how waves are transformed across a shore platform as this is a central question in rock coast geomorphology. We present results from deployment of three pressure transducers over four days, across a sloping, wide (~200 m) cliff-backed ...
Brayne, Ralph P. +4 more
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Application of neural networks and support vector machine for significant wave height prediction
Oceanologia, 2017 For the purposes of planning and operation of maritime activities, information about wave height dynamics is of great importance. In the paper, real-time prediction of significant wave heights for the following 0.5–5.5 h is provided, using information ...
Jadran Berbić +3 more
doaj +1 more source
Effects of wave-current interaction on storm surge in the Taiwan Strait: Insights from Typhoon Morakot [PDF]
, 2017 The effects of wave-current interaction on storm surge are investigated by a two-dimensional wave-current coupling model through simulations of Typhoon Morakot in the Taiwan Strait. The results show that wind wave and slope of sea floor govern wave setup
Pan, Weiran +4 more
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Ocean wave mapping from ERS SAR images in the presence of swell and wind-waves
Scientia Marina, 2004 We present a method for estimating the significant wave height of ocean waves (SWH) in coastal zones from satellite SAR images and using the value of the width of the spectral azimuthal cutoff.
Stéphan Rousseau, Philippe Forget
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Extremal Prediction of Significant Wave Height
Coastal Engineering 1978, 1978 The most generally used procedure for estimating the extremal distribution of ge_o physical variates consists in obtaining a sample of extreme values (for instance a number of annual maxima) and fitting to them a distribution function. One of the main problems - involved in this procedure is the choice of the type of distribution adequate in each case.
openaire +2 more sources
Biofouling Effects on the Response of a Wave Measurement Buoy in Deep Water [PDF]
, 2015 The effects of biofouling on a wave measurement buoy are examined using concurrent data collected with two Datawell Waveriders at Ocean Station P: one heavily biofouled at the end of a 26-month deployment, the other newly deployed and clean.
Brown, Adam +9 more
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Significant Wave Height Forecasting Based on EMD-TimesNet Networks
Journal of Marine Science and EngineeringSignificant Wave Height (SWH) is a crucial parameter in ocean wave dynamics, impacting coastal safety, maritime transportation, and meteorological research.
Zhuxin Ouyang +4 more
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Deformed SPDE models with an application to spatial modeling of significant wave height
, 2019 A non-stationary Gaussian random field model is developed based on a combination of the stochastic partial differential equation (SPDE) approach and the classical deformation method.
Bolin, David +2 more
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