Results 71 to 80 of about 1,205 (190)

Observations of Sea‐Swell Wave Reflection From a Steep, Nearshore Bar

Earth and Space Science, Volume 12, Issue 4, April 2025.
Abstract Wave reflection near the beach affects the energy reaching the shore, surfzone wave conditions, and sediment transport. Many prior studies have shown strong reflection of infragravity (0.01 < frequency < 0.05 Hz) wave energy from steep foreshore slopes.
Drude F. Christensen, Britt Raubenheimer, Steve Elgar   +2 more
wiley   +1 more source

Climate Adaptation for a Natural Atoll Island in the Maldives ‐ Predicting the Long‐Term Morphological Response of Coral Islands to Sea Level Rise and the Effect of Hazard Mitigation Strategies

Earth's Future, Volume 13, Issue 4, April 2025.
Abstract Coral atoll islands, common in (sub)tropical oceans, consist of low‐lying accumulations of carbonate sediment produced by fringing coral reef systems and are of great socio‐economic and ecological importance. Previous studies have predicted that many atoll islands will become uninhabitable before the end of this century due to sea level rise ...
F. E. Roelvink, G. Masselink, C. Stokes, R. T. McCall   +3 more
wiley   +1 more source

Calibración y validación de un modelo matemático para la simulación de los cambios morfológicos durante eventos extremos en una playa del Caribe

Tecnología y ciencias del agua, 2016
Recientemente ha sido desarrollado el modelo numérico Xbeach, capaz de simular cambios morfológicos y procesos que ocurren cercanos a la costa, como rotura del oleaje, incluyendo erosión de la duna, rebase y apertura de brechas, desarrollado para playas ...
Kenia Hernández Valdés, Luis F. Córdova López   +1 more
doaj  

Modelo XBeach NH para el cálculo del rebase sobre muros verticales. Malecón de La Habana

Ingeniería Hidráulica y Ambiental, 2023
La investigación se centró en modelar con XBeach, en su modo No Hidrostático el comportamiento del oleaje durante la ocurrencia de eventos extremos en el malecón de La Habana para determinar el rebase sobre la estructura.
Daykelin León Arias, Luis F. Córdova López   +1 more
doaj  

SnapWave: fast, implicit wave transformation from offshore to nearshore [PDF]

Geoscientific Model Development
This paper presents an efficient, implicit, unstructured-grid wave propagation model, SnapWave (Roelvink, 2025), which provides a simple and fast way to predict nearshore wave conditions at specified locations, for coastline models such as ShorelineS ...
D. Roelvink, D. Roelvink, D. Roelvink, M. van Ormondt, J. Reyns, J. Reyns, J. Reyns, M. van der Lugt, M. van der Lugt   +8 more
doaj   +1 more source

Modeling Impact of Intertidal Foreshore Evolution on Gravel Barrier Erosion and Wave Runup with XBeach-X

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 2020
This paper provides a sensitivity analysis around how characterizing sandy, intertidal foreshore evolution in XBeach-X impacts on wave runup and morphological change of a vulnerable, composite gravel beach. The study is motivated by a need for confidence
Benjamin T. Phillips, Jennifer M. Brown, Andrew J. Plater   +2 more
doaj   +1 more source

Future Coastal Tundra Loss Due To Compounding Environmental Changes in Alaska

Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, Volume 130, Issue 4, April 2025.
Abstract Anthropogenic climate change is amplified in the Arctic, where less sea ice enables more energetic wave climates while higher air and soil temperatures increase tundra erodibility. These compounding environmental changes are likely to exacerbate retreat of coastal tundra yet remain poorly constrained on timescales relevant to storm wave ...
D. L. Anderson, N. Cohn
wiley   +1 more source

Wave Hydrodynamics in Ports: Numerical model assessment of XBeach

, 2016
Wave climate in harbours determines for a significant part the efficiency of harbour operations. A good prediction of the hydrodynamics is therefore regarded as indispensable, which is often done by means of advanced numerical modelling.
Wong, A.L.Z. (author)
core  

Storm-Induced Evolution on an Artificial Pocket Gravel Beach: A Numerical Study with XBeach-Gravel

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Coarse-grained beaches consisting of gravel, pebbles, and cobbles play a crucial role in coastal protection. On the Croatian Adriatic coast, there are artificial gravel pocket beaches created for recreational and protective purposes.
Hanna Miličević, Dalibor Carević, Damjan Bujak, Goran Lončar, Andrea Tadić   +4 more
doaj   +1 more source

Predicting Morphological Changes Along a Macrotidal Coastline Using a Two‐Stage Machine Learning Model

Water Resources Research, Volume 61, Issue 4, April 2025.
Abstract Understanding and predicting coastal change is of the foremost importance to protect coastal communities and coastal assets. This study analyzes field data from 125 locations along the Morecambe coastline, consisting of beach transects collected twice a year for more than a decade (2007–2022).
Pavitra Kumar, Nicoletta Leonardi
wiley   +1 more source