Results 201 to 210 of about 6,428 (235)
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Mean currents and sediment transport in a rip channel
Marine Geology, 1997Measurements of hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport were carried out along a cross-shore transect in a rip channel. A tidally induced threshold for rip flow initiation was found; this threshold depended upon the degree of wave energy dissipation and could be identified through a critical value of the ratio of significant wave height to water
Troels Aagaard, Jørgen Nielsen
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Megacusps on rip channel bathymetry: Observations and modeling
Coastal Engineering, 2011Abstract The formation of beach megacusps along the shoreline of southern Monterey Bay, CA, is investigated using time-averaged video and simulated with XBeach, a recently developed coastal sediment transport model. Investigations focus on the hydrodynamic role played by the bay's ever-present rip channels.
Ad Reniers +2 more
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Alongshore rip channel migration and sediment transport
Marine Geology, 2010Abstract The relationship between alongshore rip channel migration and sediment transport is investigated using time-averaged video images to identify the positions of rip channels at three sites along southern Monterey Bay, California, over 1–3 year periods. Daily migration rates are calculated for each site.
Edward Thornton +2 more
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Storm-driven changes in rip channel patterns on an embayed beach
Geomorphology, 2011This paper introduces a semi-automatic computer algorithm designed to detect rip current channels in video imagery. As a case study, this method is applied to 3.3 years of video data from an embayed beach to demonstrate the link between antecedent surf zone morphology, wave energy and up/down transitions in beach state.
Giovanni Coco
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Three-Dimensional SPH Modeling of a Bar/Rip Channel System
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 2014AbstractA Lagrangian numerical method called smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) is used to analyze a simplified bar/rip channel system on a beach. Prior studies have shown that SPH models propagate water waves well, including breaking waves; here, it is shown that SPH also models the mean wave-induced nearshore circulation created by breaking waves.
Giuseppe Bilotta +2 more
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ON THE CONFIGURATION OF RIP CHANNEL ACCELERATING DEVELOPMENT OF RIP CURRENT
Coastal Engineering 2004, 2005MAKOTO SHIBASAKI +4 more
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Rip currents and rip channel morphodynamics under quasi-steady conditions
OCEANS 2009, 2009We developed a realistic test case for morphodynamic predictions of short-term bathymetry evolution associated with quasi-steady rip currents. Assuming stationary forcing, predictions made by the coupled wave-hydrodynamic-morphodynamic model Delft3D are compared with surf zone morphological change inferred from quarterly in-situ bathymetrie surveys ...
Julian Simeonov +2 more
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MEGACUSP FORMATION ON RIP CHANNEL BATHYMETRY
The Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments 2011, 2011The formation of beach megacusps in the presence of rip channel bathymetry is investigated using time-averaged video and simulated with XBeach, a recently developed coastal sediment transport model. A review of four years of video and wave data from Sand City, CA, indicates that megacusp embayments most often form shoreward of rip channels under larger
MARK ORZECH +3 more
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Grain size variability on a rip-channeled beach
Marine Geology, 2011Abstract Grain size is an important variable when predicting beach morphodynamics. Beaches, to the eye, seem relatively uniform in grain size and morphodynamic modeling efforts usually assume a single mean grain size for an entire beach environment. Therefore, estimating grain size is traditionally done by collecting only a few samples and averaging ...
Edith L. Gallagher +4 more
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Machine learning applications in detecting rip channels from images
Applied Soft Computing, 2019Abstract Images containing rip channels are used in oceanographic studies and can be preprocessed for these studies by identifying which regions of the image contain rip channels. For thousands of images, this process can become cumbersome. In recent years, object detection has become a successful approach for identifying regions of an image.
Corey Maryan +4 more
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