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Theoretical and Computational Fluid Dynamics, 1998
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Journal of Geophysical Research, 1971
Two important mixing mechanisms are operative within the surf zone, each having distinctive length and time scales determined by the intensity of the waves and the dimensions of the surf zone. The first is associated with the breaking wave and its bore, which produce rapid mixing in an on-offshore direction.
D. L. Inman, R. J. Tait, C. E. Nordstrom
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Two important mixing mechanisms are operative within the surf zone, each having distinctive length and time scales determined by the intensity of the waves and the dimensions of the surf zone. The first is associated with the breaking wave and its bore, which produce rapid mixing in an on-offshore direction.
D. L. Inman, R. J. Tait, C. E. Nordstrom
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Boundary Roughness and Bedforms in the Surf Zone
Marine Geology, 1984Hydrodynamical models of the nearshore system frequently assume that a single friction coefficient is sufficient to represent flow conditions at a point in the surf zone. Furthermore, models attempting to relate bed configuration to surf zone flows have relied primarily upon the wave orbital velocity as an indicator of potential bedforms, and thus as ...
Douglas J., Sherman, Brian, Greenwood
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1992
Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline.
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Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline.
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The Dynamics of Cobbles In and Near the Surf Zone and Mine Movement In and Near the Surf Zone
1999Abstract : GOAL. The long-range goals of this research are to develop, by laboratory experimentation, theoretical analyses and comparisons with field experiments, a basic understanding and, eventually, a predictive capability of the motion of cobbles in the shoaling, wave-breaking and swash zones (here, the size classification of cobbles used by the ...
Sergey I. Voropayev +2 more
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Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2021
AbstractThere have been several numerical models developed to represent the phase-averaged flow in the surf zone, which is characterized by kD less than unity, where k is wavenumber and D is the water column depth. The classic scenario is that of surface gravity waves progressing onto a shore that create an offshore undertow current.
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AbstractThere have been several numerical models developed to represent the phase-averaged flow in the surf zone, which is characterized by kD less than unity, where k is wavenumber and D is the water column depth. The classic scenario is that of surface gravity waves progressing onto a shore that create an offshore undertow current.
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The Dynamics of Cobble in and Near the Surf Zone
2001Abstract : This research was driven by the need of the Navy to improve mine countermeasures in support of joint littoral warfare, for which a key paradigm is to locate a clear or low mine- and obstacle-density path. To accomplish this goal, it is imperative that one be able to predict the behavior of mines in shallow water under a variety of coastal ...
Sergey I. Voropayev +2 more
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The mechanics of the surf zone
1973In recent years many previously baffling phenomena to do with the action of waves on sloping beaches have been sufficiently understood physically that they are now amenable to mathematical analysis. This in turn has suggested new problems, which it will be the purpose of this paper to point out.
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Propagation of sound in the surf zone
The Journal of the Acoustical Society of America, 2002This presentation focuses on the effects of a time-varying sea surface and bubble clouds due to breaking waves on the propagation of sound in the surf zone. The rough sea surface generates caustics corresponding to Bragg diffraction due to the focusing of sound by the rough surface as described by the specular point method.
Gary Sammelmann +3 more
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