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Geographical Review, 1988
The degree of wave-energy reflection or dissipation that occurs as waves propagate toward a shoreline is often expressed in terms of surf-zone-similarity parameters. Coastal geomorphologists have applied these expressions widely but generally without concern for their underlying assumptions.
Bernard O., Bauer, Brian, Greenwood
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The degree of wave-energy reflection or dissipation that occurs as waves propagate toward a shoreline is often expressed in terms of surf-zone-similarity parameters. Coastal geomorphologists have applied these expressions widely but generally without concern for their underlying assumptions.
Bernard O., Bauer, Brian, Greenwood
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Theoretical and Computational Fluid Dynamics, 1998
zbMATH Open Web Interface contents unavailable due to conflicting licenses.
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zbMATH Open Web Interface contents unavailable due to conflicting licenses.
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1992
Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline.
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Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline.
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Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2021
AbstractThere have been several numerical models developed to represent the phase-averaged flow in the surf zone, which is characterized by kD less than unity, where k is wavenumber and D is the water column depth. The classic scenario is that of surface gravity waves progressing onto a shore that create an offshore undertow current.
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AbstractThere have been several numerical models developed to represent the phase-averaged flow in the surf zone, which is characterized by kD less than unity, where k is wavenumber and D is the water column depth. The classic scenario is that of surface gravity waves progressing onto a shore that create an offshore undertow current.
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Journal of Geophysical Research, 1971
Two important mixing mechanisms are operative within the surf zone, each having distinctive length and time scales determined by the intensity of the waves and the dimensions of the surf zone. The first is associated with the breaking wave and its bore, which produce rapid mixing in an on-offshore direction.
D. L. Inman, R. J. Tait, C. E. Nordstrom
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Two important mixing mechanisms are operative within the surf zone, each having distinctive length and time scales determined by the intensity of the waves and the dimensions of the surf zone. The first is associated with the breaking wave and its bore, which produce rapid mixing in an on-offshore direction.
D. L. Inman, R. J. Tait, C. E. Nordstrom
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Bubbles and surf zone oceanography
The Journal of the Acoustical Society of America, 1998Breaking waves in the surf zone entrain high-density clouds of bubbles which are subsequently transported offshore via rip currents and turbulent diffusion. The presence of the bubbles presents a complex problem for acousticians interested in the propagation of natural and man-made sound in this shallow water regime.
Eric J. Terrill, W. Kendall Melville
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Analysis of surf zone turbulence
Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 1987Measurements of turbulent kinetic energy k under surf zone waves are analyzed to show how k varies over depth, between breaker point and shoreline, and how k depends on the beach slope. It is found that the variation of k over depth is remarkably weak, large values being measured a few percent of the depth above the bottom.
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1989
Longshore current models have been tested using NSTS measurements at Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara. The NSTS provided data on nearshore currents for a variety of wave conditions including narrow banded (in frequency and direction) swell waves of small and moderate height and wide banded waves during local storms.
Edward B. Thornton, R. T. Guza
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Longshore current models have been tested using NSTS measurements at Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara. The NSTS provided data on nearshore currents for a variety of wave conditions including narrow banded (in frequency and direction) swell waves of small and moderate height and wide banded waves during local storms.
Edward B. Thornton, R. T. Guza
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Surf and Swash Zone Hydrodynamics
1997Abstract : The long-term goal is to improve understanding of the hydrodynamics of the near-shore motions on beaches, with particular reference to the zone where the incident waves break, form surf, and run-up on the beach to give a fluctuating shoreline.
Ib A. Svendsen, D. H. Peregrine
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Surf Zone Breakers with Current
1988A two-dimensional model for waves and steady current in the surf zone is developed. It is based on a depth integrated and time averaged version of the equations for the conservation of mass, momentum, and wave energy. A numerical solution gives the variation of wave height, set-up, and steady current in the surf zone, taking into account the mass flux ...
J. Buhr Hansen, Ib A. Svendsen
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