Results 21 to 30 of about 1,924,672 (386)
Contribution of Benthic Processes to the Growth of Ooids on a Low-Energy Shore in Cat Island, The Bahamas [PDF]
, 2018 Ooids are typically found in frequently reworked coastal sediments, and are thought to accrete by inorganic chemical precipitation around moving grains. The high organic content and the presence of biosignatures, however, suggest that ooids interact with
Bosak, Tanja +6 more
core +6 more sources
Boussinesq Modelling of Shallow Water Phenomena
Environmental Sciences Proceedings, 2022 The phenomenon of wave breaking dominates the hydrodynamics of the surf zone. Therefore, numerical modelling of shallow water phenomena requires a proper reproduction of the wave breaking mechanism.
Sara Tuozzo +3 more
doaj +1 more source
Scientia Marina, 2021 The southern population of Mugil liza is distributed from Argentina (47°S) to the state of São Paulo, Brazil (23°S). Young mullets use the estuaries as nursery grounds, and prior to recruitment into estuaries they use the surf zone as a temporary habitat.
Valéria Marques Lemos +3 more
doaj +1 more source
Influence of Beach Slope on Morphological Changes and Sediment Transport under Irregular Waves
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 2023 This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy ...
Sara Dionísio António +6 more
doaj +1 more source
Scientia Marina, 2010 Large beach cusps (LBC, wavelength of ~ 30 m) are intertidal features that can alternately exist in the swash and in the inner surf zone due to tidal sea level changes. They have a larger cross-shore extent (up to 50 m) than traditional cusps.
Roland Garnier +4 more
doaj +1 more source
Nearshore oblique sand bars [PDF]
, 2003 The coupling between hydrodynamics and the evolving topography in the surf zone has been theoretically examined for oblique wave incidence. It is shown that positive feedback can lead to the initial growth of several types of rhythmic systems of sand ...
Falqués Serra, Albert +2 more
core +1 more source
Oil Transport in Surf Zone [PDF]
Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, 2000 Oil transport subjected to nearshore currents in the surf zone is considered using the mass conservation equation. Analytical solutions are obtained that describe the longshore distribution of oil deposition, as well as the length of the shoreline contaminated by oil slicks transported in the nearshore environment.
Cheng, Nian-Sheng +2 more
openaire +2 more sources
Remote Sensing, 2020 Resolving surf-zone bathymetry from high-resolution imagery typically involves measuring wave speeds and performing a physics-based inversion process using linear wave theory, or data assimilation techniques which combine multiple remotely sensed ...
Adam Collins +6 more
semanticscholar +1 more source
Surf-zone vortices over stepped topography [PDF]
, 2004 The problem of vortical motions in the surf zone is simplified by taking the bottom topography to be piecewise flat while allowing finite-height jumps in depth between flat regions.
Johnson, ER, McDonald, NR
core +1 more source
Bed level changes in the surf zone during post-storm beach recovery
Frontiers in Marine Science, 2023 The study of post-storm beach recovery is important for economic development and the protection of life in coastal areas. In this study, field observations were conducted for 21 days in the surf zone of Dongdao Beach, Hailing Island, China, after ...
Pengpeng Hu +7 more
doaj +1 more source