Results 11 to 20 of about 7,140 (304)
Surf Zone Mapping Using Multirotor Unmanned Aerial Vehicle Imagery
Surf zone is a sand area that stretches inside a breaking wave to limit the rise and fall of waves on the beach. Advanced technology in the geomatics field offers a fast and accurate solution to produce surf zone maps.
Norhalim Che Mat, Khairul Nizam Tahar
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A new method is described for making field measurements of broken surf fronts (turbulent bores) on coastal beaches. The position of a Garmin watch attached to a bodyboarder riding the surf front is recorded every second. The results of a large number of experiments on various beaches indicate that the surf fronts are uniformly retarded.
Neville John De Mestre, Gary McCoy
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Influence of Beach Slope on Morphological Changes and Sediment Transport under Irregular Waves
This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy ...
Sara Dionísio António +6 more
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Transient Surf Zone Circulation Induced by Rhythmic Swash Zone at a Reflective Beach [PDF]
International audienceThe influence of cuspate swash dynamics on transient surf zone circulation is investigated using both field observation at the low-tide terraced Grand Popo beach and wave-phase resolving numerical simulations.
Castelle, Bruno +4 more
core +4 more sources
Experimental study of waves breaking over coral reef topography of a composite slope
A series of wave-flume tests were performed to study the characteristics of regular waves breaking on coral reefs, including the breaker type, breaker height, breaker position and surf-zone width.
ZHU Yuliang +4 more
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Bed level changes in the surf zone during post-storm beach recovery
The study of post-storm beach recovery is important for economic development and the protection of life in coastal areas. In this study, field observations were conducted for 21 days in the surf zone of Dongdao Beach, Hailing Island, China, after ...
Pengpeng Hu +7 more
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A SIMILARITY MODEL IN THE SURF ZONE
In fluid mechanics, a powerful tool known as the similarity model has been applied successfully to describe velocity and pressure fields in steady boundary layer flows, jet flows and wake flows. These flows, with the exception of a few laminar cases, are quite complex and are usually not amenable to theoretical analysis.
Hsiang Wang, Wei-Chong Yang
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Measuring and modeling suspended sediment concentration profiles in the surf zone
Time-averaged suspended sediment concentration profiles across the surf zone were measured in a large-scale three-dimensional movable bed laboratory facility (LSTF: Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility).
Ping Wang
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The on-offshore and the vertical components u, w of the velocity in a surf zone on a uniformly sloping beach in a wave tank were measured simultaneously with a laser-doppler velocimeter under two conditions. The time variation of the Reynolds stress -u'w' during one wave period is discussed.
T. Sakai, I. Sandanbata, M. Uchida
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This paper investigates the dynamics of the cross-shore extensions of banquettes, a sedimentary structure mostly made by rests of Posidonia oceanica (L.) Delile, in a sandy urban beach located in the Gulf of Cagliari, Italy, western Mediterranean.
Daniele Trogu +5 more
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