Results 11 to 20 of about 3,094 (268)
Influence of Beach Slope on Morphological Changes and Sediment Transport under Irregular Waves
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 2023 This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy ...
Sara Dionísio António +6 more
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Experimental study of waves breaking over coral reef topography of a composite slope
Shui kexue jinzhan, 2018 A series of wave-flume tests were performed to study the characteristics of regular waves breaking on coral reefs, including the breaker type, breaker height, breaker position and surf-zone width.
ZHU Yuliang +4 more
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A SIMILARITY MODEL IN THE SURF ZONE
Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1980 In fluid mechanics, a powerful tool known as the similarity model has been applied successfully to describe velocity and pressure fields in steady boundary layer flows, jet flows and wake flows. These flows, with the exception of a few laminar cases, are quite complex and are usually not amenable to theoretical analysis.
Hsiang Wang, Wei-Chong Yang
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Coastal Engineering 1984, 1984 The on-offshore and the vertical components u, w of the velocity in a surf zone on a uniformly sloping beach in a wave tank were measured simultaneously with a laser-doppler velocimeter under two conditions. The time variation of the Reynolds stress -u'w' during one wave period is discussed.
T. Sakai, I. Sandanbata, M. Uchida
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Surf Zone Mapping Using Multirotor Unmanned Aerial Vehicle Imagery
International Journal of Optics, 2019 Surf zone is a sand area that stretches inside a breaking wave to limit the rise and fall of waves on the beach. Advanced technology in the geomatics field offers a fast and accurate solution to produce surf zone maps.
Norhalim Che Mat, Khairul Nizam Tahar
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Measuring and modeling suspended sediment concentration profiles in the surf zone
Journal of Palaeogeography, 2012 Time-averaged suspended sediment concentration profiles across the surf zone were measured in a large-scale three-dimensional movable bed laboratory facility (LSTF: Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility).
Ping Wang
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Bed level changes in the surf zone during post-storm beach recovery
Frontiers in Marine Science, 2023 The study of post-storm beach recovery is important for economic development and the protection of life in coastal areas. In this study, field observations were conducted for 21 days in the surf zone of Dongdao Beach, Hailing Island, China, after ...
Pengpeng Hu +7 more
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Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 2023 This paper investigates the dynamics of the cross-shore extensions of banquettes, a sedimentary structure mostly made by rests of Posidonia oceanica (L.) Delile, in a sandy urban beach located in the Gulf of Cagliari, Italy, western Mediterranean.
Daniele Trogu +5 more
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Field Investigations in Surf Zones
Coastal Engineering 1974, 1974 During storm surges considerable wave energies are dissipated in surf zones; the energy transfer rates are in the order of one up to two powers of ten higher than outside the surf zone. A breaker parameter s introduced by FOHRBOTER (1974) with regard to a quantitative breaker classification, especially of the intermediate types between surging and ...
Hans Henning Dette, Alfred Fohrboter
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Effects of Stokes drift induced by regular waves on pollutant transport
Shui kexue jinzhan, 2017 We develop a numerical model that encompasses wave induced current as well as advective and diffusion models to examine the effects of Stokes drift on pollutant transport within the surf zone on a plane beach.
REN Chunping, BAI Yuchuan
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