Results 21 to 30 of about 7,140 (304)
Effects of Stokes drift induced by regular waves on pollutant transport
Shui kexue jinzhan, 2017 We develop a numerical model that encompasses wave induced current as well as advective and diffusion models to examine the effects of Stokes drift on pollutant transport within the surf zone on a plane beach.
REN Chunping, BAI Yuchuan
doaj +1 more source
WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SURF ZONE
Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1978 The equations describing conservation of mass, momentum and energy in a turbulent free surface flow are derived for a controle volume extending over the whole depth. The effect of the turbulent surface oscillations are discussed but neglected in the following analysis, where the equations are applied to the energy balance in a surf zone wave motion ...
I. A. Svendsen +2 more
openaire +2 more sources
Numerical Study on Tsunami Hazard Mitigation Using a Submerged Breakwater
The Scientific World Journal, 2014 Most coastal structures have been built in surf zones to protect coastal areas. In general, the transformation of waves in the surf zone is quite complicated and numerous hazards to coastal communities may be associated with such phenomena.
Taemin Ha +3 more
doaj +1 more source
Effects of Coastal Groundwater Level on Beach Deformation [PDF]
한국해양공학회지, 2019 In order to understand the characteristics of beach deformation, in this study, numerical simulations were conducted using a 3-D hydro-morphodynamic model (HYMO-WASS-3D) to analyze the characteristics of beach deformation due to the coastal groundwater ...
Woo-Dong Lee, Dong-Soo Hur
doaj +1 more source
Field Investigations in Surf Zones
Coastal Engineering 1974, 1974 During storm surges considerable wave energies are dissipated in surf zones; the energy transfer rates are in the order of one up to two powers of ten higher than outside the surf zone. A breaker parameter s introduced by FOHRBOTER (1974) with regard to a quantitative breaker classification, especially of the intermediate types between surging and ...
Hans Henning Dette, Alfred Fohrboter
openaire +2 more sources
SEASONAL EVALUATION OF THE CONDITION FACTOR IN A SURF-ZONE ASSEMBLAGE FROM SOUTHEASTERN BRAZIL
Boletim do Instituto de Pesca, 2019 The surf zone is a highly dynamic environment subject to seasonal fluctuations which could impose restrictions to the development of juvenile fish. The allometric condition factor index (K) provides a value of ‘well-being’ for fish, been used to compare ...
Eidi Kikuchi SANTOS +2 more
doaj +1 more source
Internal waves and temperature fronts on slopes [PDF]
Annales Geophysicae, 1999 Time series measurements from an array of temperature miniloggers in a line at constant depth along the sloping boundary of a lake are used to describe the `internal surf zone' where internal waves interact with the sloping boundary.
S. A. Thorpe, S. A. Thorpe, U. Lemmin
doaj +1 more source
Open Geosciences, 2016 Swash zone topography rapidly responds to the surf zone waves. Understanding how sandy beaches respond to wave action is critical for beach erosion research, and plays a critical role in the design and maintenance of shore protection structures. The main
Li Zhiqiang
doaj +1 more source
Frontiers in Marine Science, 2018 We investigated whether cross-shore distributions of coastal phytoplankton to the surf zone are controlled by hydrodynamics and their biological characteristics.
Atsushi G. Fujimura +5 more
doaj +1 more source
Laboratory investigation of shape and initial orientation effects on surf zone object migration
Applied Ocean ResearchDiscarded objects like munitions in marine environments pose public safety risks. The behavior of various density objects deployed at four cross-shore positions in the surf zone of a large-scale 120 m x 5 m x 5 m wave flume were observed under different ...
Temitope E. Idowu, Jack A. Puleo
doaj +1 more source