Results 21 to 30 of about 120,576 (303)
Large scale experiments on beach evolution induced by bichromatic wave groups with varying group period [PDF]
, 2014 New large scale experimental data have been presented showing the wave group influence on beach morphodynamics at the surf and swash zones. Bichromatic wave conditions were generated varying the modulation bandwidth but keeping the wave energetic content
Alsina, Jose M. +4 more
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Effects of Stokes drift induced by regular waves on pollutant transport
Shui kexue jinzhan, 2017 We develop a numerical model that encompasses wave induced current as well as advective and diffusion models to examine the effects of Stokes drift on pollutant transport within the surf zone on a plane beach.
Chunping REN, Yuchuan BAI
doaj +1 more source
A numerical model for the simulation of a solitary wave in a coastal region [PDF]
, 2015 In this paper we propose a numerical model for the simulation of the tsunami wave propagation on coastal region. The model can simulate the wave transformation due to refraction, shoaling, diffraction and breaking phenomena that take place in the surf ...
CAMILLI, FLAMINIA, LASAPONARA, FRANCESCO
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Numerical Study on Tsunami Hazard Mitigation Using a Submerged Breakwater
The Scientific World Journal, 2014 Most coastal structures have been built in surf zones to protect coastal areas. In general, the transformation of waves in the surf zone is quite complicated and numerous hazards to coastal communities may be associated with such phenomena.
Taemin Ha +3 more
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Effects of Coastal Groundwater Level on Beach Deformation [PDF]
한국해양공학회지, 2019 In order to understand the characteristics of beach deformation, in this study, numerical simulations were conducted using a 3-D hydro-morphodynamic model (HYMO-WASS-3D) to analyze the characteristics of beach deformation due to the coastal groundwater ...
Woo-Dong Lee, Dong-Soo Hur
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SEASONAL EVALUATION OF THE CONDITION FACTOR IN A SURF-ZONE ASSEMBLAGE FROM SOUTHEASTERN BRAZIL
Boletim do Instituto de Pesca, 2019 The surf zone is a highly dynamic environment subject to seasonal fluctuations which could impose restrictions to the development of juvenile fish. The allometric condition factor index (K) provides a value of ‘well-being’ for fish, been used to compare ...
Eidi Kikuchi SANTOS +2 more
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ANZIAM Journal, 2017 A new method is described for making field measurements of broken surf fronts (turbulent bores) on coastal beaches. The position of a Garmin watch attached to a bodyboarder riding the surf front is recorded every second. The results of a large number of experiments on various beaches indicate that the surf fronts are uniformly retarded.
Neville John De Mestre, Gary McCoy
openaire +2 more sources
Bottom changes in coastal areas with complex shorelines [PDF]
, 2017 A model for the sea-bottom change simulations in coastal areas with complex shorelines is proposed. In deep and intermediate water depths, the hydrodynamic quantities are calculated by numerically integrating the contravariant Boussinesq equations ...
Cannata, Giovanni +2 more
core +1 more source
MORPHODYNAMIC INSTABILITIES IN THE SURF ZONE [PDF]
Coastal Engineering 2004, 2005 The bed forms in the surf zone can grow as a result of natural morphodynamic instabilities, forced by the wave-induced flow. This work gives a contribution to the dynamics of the formation and evolution the bed forms in surf zone. We use the new morphodynamic model, M-SHORECIRC, to analyze the growth and dynamics of bar-type, rhythmic, bed forms of a ...
Fachin, S., Sancho, F. E.
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Open Geosciences, 2016 Swash zone topography rapidly responds to the surf zone waves. Understanding how sandy beaches respond to wave action is critical for beach erosion research, and plays a critical role in the design and maintenance of shore protection structures. The main
Li Zhiqiang
doaj +1 more source