Beach accretion with erosive waves: "Beachbuilding" = Accrétion sur les plages avec vagues érosives: "la technique de construction de plage" [PDF]
, 1997 A new method of beach preservation, the Beachbuilder Technique, proposes to harness the energy of normally erosive waves to produce beach accretion.
Beardsley, M.W., Charlier, R.H.
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Modeling bed evolution using weakly coupled phase-resolving wave model and wave-averaged sediment transport model [PDF]
, 2016 In this paper, we propose a model for the simulation of the bed evolution dynamics in coastal regions characterized by articulated morphologies.
Cannata, Giovanni +3 more
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Laboratory investigation of shape and initial orientation effects on surf zone object migration
Applied Ocean ResearchDiscarded objects like munitions in marine environments pose public safety risks. The behavior of various density objects deployed at four cross-shore positions in the surf zone of a large-scale 120 m x 5 m x 5 m wave flume were observed under different ...
Temitope E. Idowu, Jack A. Puleo
doaj +1 more source
Step Approximation on Water Wave Breaking and Dissipation over Variable Bottoms across the Surf Zone
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 2023 This study investigates the combined effect of the breaking and energy dissipation of water waves by variable bottoms across the surf zone. The shoreline is set up as a partially reflecting vertical wall in the solution technique, with shelves between ...
Jen-Yi Chang, Chia-Cheng Tsai
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A Response Guide for Sunken Oil Mats (SOMs): Formation, Behavior, Detection, and Recovery
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 2022 Based on past spills, the conditions under which floating oil mixes with enough sand to form sunken oil mats (SOMs) are identified. SOMs form mostly during spills of heavy crudes or heavy fuel oils, but also highly weathered and viscous crude oils.
Jacqueline Michel, Philip Bambach
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New Perspectives for Nonlinear Depth‐Inversion of the Nearshore Using Boussinesq Theory
Geophysical Research Letters, 2023 Accurately mapping the evolving bathymetry under energetic wave breaking is challenging, yet critical for improving our understanding of sandy beach morphodynamics.
Kévin Martins +5 more
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Field Investigations in Surf Zones
Coastal Engineering 1974, 1974 During storm surges considerable wave energies are dissipated in surf zones; the energy transfer rates are in the order of one up to two powers of ten higher than outside the surf zone. A breaker parameter s introduced by FOHRBOTER (1974) with regard to a quantitative breaker classification, especially of the intermediate types between surging and ...
Hans Henning Dette, Alfred Fohrboter
openaire +2 more sources
The influence of free long wave generation on the shoaling of forced infragravity waves [PDF]
, 2019 Different conceptual models for forced infragravity (long) waves exist in the literature, which suggest different models for the behavior of shoaling forced waves and the possible radiation of free long waves in that process. These are discussed in terms
Bowen +8 more
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Modeling hepatic fibrosis in TP53 knockout iPSC‐derived human liver organoids
Molecular Oncology, EarlyView.This study developed iPSC‐derived human liver organoids with TP53 gene knockout to model human liver fibrosis. These organoids showed elevated myofibroblast activation, early disease markers, and advanced fibrotic hallmarks. The use of profibrotic differentiation medium further amplified the fibrotic signature seen in the organoids.
Mustafa Karabicici +8 more
wiley +1 more source
Experimental investigation on wave roller area evolution in the surf zone
Applied Ocean ResearchIn the surf zone, breaking waves generate an air-entraining turbulent region ahead of the wave crest, known as the wave roller, which plays a crucial role in nearshore dynamics.
Yuefeng Wu +3 more
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